May, 1: A new era in 3D photography?: Sony multi-terminal era
Jose Barbera
Last weekend two cables (male and female) arrived from China to me, for the multi-terminal port of the latest models of Sony cameras.
With a little help from my friends (as the Beatles song :) of a well-known electronic store in Elche, now I can confirm that these two cables can get a perfect synchronization (no needing an external trigger) in, at least, three Sony Alpha cameras (A5100, A6000 and A7S). I think that can be also possibly in other two dozens of Sony cameras models (the Alpha and ... also the Cyber-Shot?). I am very excited because, suddenly, I have the possibility of obtaining extraordinary 3D equipment, very powerful and cheap, and much better than any new 3D camera, because these Sony twined cameras allow shooting with a variable stereobase (not possible with any future two-lens camera). As we all know the exposure depends on three inter-related variables (aperture, speed and ISO), and also the depth depends on other three inter-related variables (stereobase, focal distance, and distance to near object). For this reason, if a variable is not adequate (here the excessive stereobase, excepte in the portrait mode) we can compensate that modifying the other two variables of the triangle: a) increasing the distance to near object or b) decreasing the focal distance. It think can be absurd to reject the stereobase of this Sony stereo rigs, (and can be a obvious non sense to mutilate the cameras !), because we not need a 6.5 cm stereobase: we only need to change the lenses (searching other focal distance) for compensate that. I got a message from Randy Hester, in Phereo, few days ago: http://phereo.com/image/5ab16f40e7e564e72100020d http://phereo.com/image/5ab16f40e7e564e72100020d “the biggest difference id the Sony uses a proprietary multi-port connector for the focus and shutter pins. It's much harder to find than a standard USB connector but can be ordered online”. I searched here information about the synchronization of the CSC Sony cameras and I found some hopeful phrases, since 2016: crunchy_3d Jul 8 2016 https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/photo-3d/conversations/messages/110456 https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/photo-3d/conversations/messages/110456 Concerning Sonys, particularly A5000, Gert-Jan and me were measured synch and it was quite good (more than useful). Waiting Gert-Jan to present results. :-) Damir depthcam Sep 15, 2016 https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/photo-3d/conversations/messages/111830 https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/photo-3d/conversations/messages/111830 Currently, good sync results have been reported by Damir and Gert-Jan with the Sony A5000 Francois depthcam Oct 31, 2016 https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/photo-3d/conversations/messages/112733 https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/photo-3d/conversations/messages/112733 However, for side by side use, they are excellent. Here is an article about it by Gert-Ian Wolkers: http://world-of-3d.com/3d-igital-equipment/make-your-own-3d-camera/index.html http://world-of-3d.com/3d-igital-equipment/make-your-own-3d-camera/index.html I have heard that Alexander Klein even has linked two Sony Alpha 6000's Francois depthcam Dec 8, 2016 https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/photo-3d/conversations/messages/114033 https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/photo-3d/conversations/messages/114033 You would need to ask Alexander Klein who has a pair of Sony A6000's. Francois I also read the coments de Randy Hester at 3dphoto forum: http://www.3dphoto.net/forum/index.php?topic=11976.0 http://www.3dphoto.net/forum/index.php?topic=11976.0 (Sony multi-port sync cable) « on: March 25, 2018, 03:38:36 PM »The Sony multiport connector looks like a USB micro-B connector . I couldn't find the female version cable so I just bought two male cables Then, trying to follow, maybe, the previous path of Gert-Jan Wolkers, Damir Vrancic, Alexander Klein and, perhaps, others: Synchronize with direct connection, without extern trigger, the Sony CSC Alpha cameras. I looked for a female Sony multi-terminal cable (Female-S2, replacement for Sony RM-SPR1 Cable) and I only found it in China, but avaiable through Amazon Spain: DSLRKIT E3 F-S2 (Female) https://www.amazon.es/gp/product/B00M6N0FQ8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.es/gp/product/B00M6N0FQ8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 DSLRKIT 2.5-S2 (Male) https://www.amazon.es/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?__mk_es_ES=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=DSLRKIT+2.5-S2 https://www.amazon.es/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?__mk_es_ES=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=DSLRKIT+2.5-S2+ The S8 cables, male and female, are compatible with several advanced Sony cams (today 39 models): http://support.d-imaging.sony.co.jp/www/cscs/accessories/?mdl=RM-SPR1&area=gwt&lang=es_ES http://support.d-imaging.sony.co.jp/www/cscs/accessories/?mdl=RM-SPR1&area=gwt&lang=es_ES Sony Alpha: A7 / A7R /A7S/ A9 / (and mark II, III) A3000/A3500/ NEX-3NL / A5000 / A5100 / A6000 / A6300 / A6500 / A58 / A68 /A77II /A99II/ Sony Cyper-Shot: RX1RII / RX10II , III, IV / RX100II , III, IV, V / HX300 / HX350 / HX400 / HX50 / HX60 / HX80 / HX50 / HX90 / WX500 / ILCE-QX1 / I not know if the synchronization works well at all the Sony cameras with multi-terminal port. I only can confirm the sync with 3 models indicated above: A5100, A6000 and A7S (until ISO 400.000!). In any case, each 3D photo lover can make the appropriate checks, only under their own risk. Now (May 1) a new era in 3D photography begins, (at least for me, excited and happy): The Sony Multi-terminal Era. Thank you Sony !!! All the best Jose Barbera http://phereo.com/josebarbera http://phereo.com/josebarbera ________________________________________________________________ crunchy_3d Jul 8 2016 https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/photo-3d/conversations/messages/110456 https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/photo-3d/conversations/messages/110456 As I already commented below, Fujis are not OK for synching. No useful synch has been obtained in any mode. Concerning Sonys, particularly A5000, Gert-Jan and me were measured synch and it was quite good (more than useful). Waiting Gert-Jan to present results. :-) Damir depthcam Sep 15, 2016 https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/photo-3d/conversations/messages/111830 https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/photo-3d/conversations/messages/111830 Currently, good sync results have been reported by Damir and Gert-Jan with the Sony A5000 Francois BC Sep 15, 2016 https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/photo-3d/conversations/messages/111836 https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/photo-3d/conversations/messages/111836 Besides the very nice form factor, the Sony is also interesting because of the tantalizing possibility of creating custom software for it. Sony has two different approaches for doing this... "...to write/develop embedded applications for Sony cameras that support after-the-fact install of "apps" from the Sony "PlayMemories" application ( aka "store"). There is also a kinda related ( but technically very different ) SDK by Sony that is called the "remote api", which is used for apps outside the camera ( android and ios phones typically) to assist them in remotely performing actions to the camera over WiFi. One is an in-camera app, the other is an out-of-camera app." ...BC depthcam Oct 31, 2016 https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/photo-3d/conversations/messages/112733 https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/photo-3d/conversations/messages/112733 I'd like to reiterate here that some people are now preferring pairing the lightweight Sony Alpha 5000 which has better IQ than the NX1000 and that has better stereo sync accuracy (less than 2ms error compared to 4ms error with the NX1000). The main shortcoming is that the remote ports are on the left of the body. Therefore unless someone designs a custom twin remote connector, it's not possible to bring the bodies as close together as with the NX1000. However, for side by side use, they are excellent. Here is an article about it by Gert-Ian Wolkers: http://world-of-3d.com/3d-igital-equipment/make-your-own-3d-camera/index.html http://world-of-3d.com/3d-igital-equipment/make-your-own-3d-camera/index.html I have heard that Alexander Klein even has linked two Sony Alpha 6000's Francois BC Oct 31, 2016 https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/photo-3d/conversations/messages/112735 https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/photo-3d/conversations/messages/112735 > I'd like to reiterate here that some people are now preferring > pairing the lightweight Sony Alpha 5000... > http://world-of-3d.com/3d-igital-equipment/make-your-own-3d-camera/index.html http://world-of-3d.com/3d-igital-equipment/make-your-own-3d-camera/index.html I had missed any discussion of this particular Sony camera. Thanks for the link to that review. That Sony certainly sounds promising. ...BC George Themelis Oct 31, 2016 https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/photo-3d/conversations/messages/112736 Another consideration is the price. In terms of specs/price, I would say that the Sony A500/600 is comparable to the Samsung NX500 (OK, maybe the Samsung is more expensive, also not available new - is it a coincidence that both have 500 in the model number?) Here is the comparison between these two cameras: http://cameradecision.com/compare/Sony-Alpha-a5000-vs-Samsung-NX500 http://cameradecision.com/compare/Sony-Alpha-a5000-vs-Samsung-NX500 Even without the issue of the remotes being on the "wrong side", it looks like the spacing in the z-configuration is about 75-80mm for these cameras (just a guess). Does anyone know why some cameras show better synchronization than others. What factors determine this? Why are the Panasonic cameras not as good as the Sony or Samsung? George depthcam Nov 1, 2016 https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/photo-3d/conversations/messages/112754 https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/photo-3d/conversations/messages/112754 >> The main shortcoming is that the remote ports are on >> the left of the body. > Ouch! I hate it when this happens :) Yep. They always have to mess it up for us ! >:-( > Another consideration is the price. Yes. For sure the G1X and Sony Alphas are more expensive cameras. I guess you know how it goes: "You get what you pay for..." > Does anyone know why some cameras show better synchronization than others. Generally, it's the varying times the cameras take to set up exposure and focus. But the general reason seems to be the live-view display. I think someone mentioned a while back that the recent Sony's have a quicker responding live-view display. That may be why the recent Sony Alpha5000 has half the sync error as the older NEX-5. > Even without the issue of the remotes being on the "wrong side", it looks like the spacing in the z-configuration is about 75-80mm for these cameras I was primarily comparing the Alpha5000 not to the NX1000 but to the Rebel pair that Bob mentioned. I was merely pointing out that the Alpha5000 is a more lightweight alternative to a pair of Rebels and with comparable IQ. In this regard, the Canon M3 is definitely another contender. Francois willkefamily Nov 1, 2016 https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/photo-3d/conversations/messages/112762 This Sony A5000 does sound interesting. Is there a ready-made Z-bar kit that would work for a pair of these, or would that be strictly a custom do-it-yourself project? -Mark Willke George Themelis Nov 2, 2016 https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/photo-3d/conversations/messages/112765 https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/photo-3d/conversations/messages/112765 From what Francois said, a problem with these cameras is that the remote port is on the short side. So the advantage of having the lenses off the center is somewhat negated by the fact that you need space for the remote plugs between the cameras. George depthcam Nov 2 2016, 3:44 PM https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/photo-3d/conversations/messages/112785 https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/photo-3d/conversations/messages/112785 https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/photo-3d/conversations/messages/112785 The beauty of the latest Sony Alpha 5000 is that it only requires connection via external cables to achieve an average sync error of only 2ms. So one avoids the cost of having the cameras internally modified. But then, that's when the location of the ports becomes significant if you require a small interaxial. What I said earlier is that it may be possible to design a very thin connector that could fit between the two cameras so that the interaxial would be minimally affected. Francois BC Nov 2, 2016 https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/photo-3d/conversations/messages/112789 https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/photo-3d/conversations/messages/112789 My thought exactly. A PCB board with the micro USB plugs carefully aligned should be feasible. ...BC Depthcam Dec 7, 2016 https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/photo-3d/conversations/messages/114005 https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/photo-3d/conversations/messages/114005 While it is purely speculative on my part, I think it might be feasible to create a printed circuit board, with carefully positioned USB connectors soldered on the surface, that could be used for connecting these camera Francois Depthcam Dec 7, 2016 https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/photo-3d/conversations/messages/114009 https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/photo-3d/conversations/messages/114009 > While it is purely speculative on my part, I think it might be > feasible to create a printed circuit board, with carefully > positioned USB connectors soldered on the surface, that could be > used for connecting these camera Well, that's what I suggested for the Sony Alpha 5000, which I think is a better choice than the NX1000. But who would make one ? Francois laurent.doldi Dec 8, 2016 https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/photo-3d/conversations/messages/114011 https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/photo-3d/conversations/messages/114011 The Alpha 5000 is a better body, but unfortunately the Sony zooms designed for it are bad. Even the expensive and huge Zeiss zoom is bad. For example this 16-50mm zoom has only 1.5 stars in optical quality! : http://www.photozone.de/sony_nex/842-sony1650f3556oss?start=2 http://www.photozone.de/sony_nex/842-sony1650f3556oss?start=2 And this is confirmed by Chasseur d'Images and other not free reference paper magazines. As opposed to most Samsung NX zooms which are very good, especially the cheap, small and light 20-50mm with 3.5 stars in optical quality, a true miracle!: http://www.photozone.de/samsungnx/703_samsungnx2050f3556?start=1 http://www.photozone.de/samsungnx/703_samsungnx2050f3556?start=1 And as Samsung has stopped photography (except in phones naturally), the NX1000 and its lenses are very cheap (I missed a NX1000 + 20-50mm + 50-200mm like new for 160 Euros - 175US$!). Laurent. BC Dec 8, 2016 https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/photo-3d/conversations/messages/114014 https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/photo-3d/conversations/messages/114014 Being an electronics hobbyist since I was 12, I think I have the skill set to pull it off. But the Sony is not of interest to me for the reasons that Laurent just enumerated, plus the expense of the camera. ...BC depthcam Dec 8, 2016 https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/photo-3d/conversations/messages/114026 https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/photo-3d/conversations/messages/114026 I wish it were so clear cut as that... First off, even Bob admitted that the Samsung sensors are not very impressive, while the Sony sensors are known for their great dynamic range. Secondly, as much as magazine reviews may be quoted in regards quality of lenses, just look at the image samples produced by the Sony. Gert-Jan Wolkers has been shooting extensively with them and is getting impressive results. Thirdly, if Sony lenses are your main argument, get an adapter and use Nikon lenses on those bodies like others have done. And in the end, even though I know people here seem not to care about sync, tests show much better sync with Sony Alpha than with Samsung NX (for those who care...) Francois George Themelis Dec 8, 2016 https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/photo-3d/conversations/messages/114029 Question: Does the Sony Alpha synchronize with flash? George depthcam Dec 8, 2016 https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/photo-3d/conversations/messages/114033 https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/photo-3d/conversations/messages/114033 You would need to ask Alexander Klein who has a pair of Sony A6000's. Francois laurent.doldi Dec 9, 2016 https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/photo-3d/conversations/messages/114057 https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/photo-3d/conversations/messages/114057 Yes, the Sony A5000 sensors (extremely good) are better than the NX1000 sensors. But the NX1000 sensor is very good: the NX2000 (same sensor etc. as the NX1000) has got the maximum mark (5 stars) in Chasseur d'Images magazine severe tests. 77 laurent.doldi Dec 9, 2016 https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/photo-3d/conversations/messages/114058 https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/photo-3d/conversations/messages/114058 > " Gert-Jan Wolkers has been shooting extensively with them (Sony A5000s) and is getting impressive results" 1. Did he used a prime lens or a zoom. 2. Why using useless Sony zooms, and not use the Samsung NX1000 zooms almost for free and providing an incredible image quality? 3. I am also getting impressive results with my NX1000 (for example at 2000 ISO in a circus with horrible lighting). Laurent. laurent.doldi Dec 9, 2016 https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/photo-3d/conversations/messages/114059 https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/photo-3d/conversations/messages/114059 > " Thirdly, if Sony lenses are your main argument, get an adapter and use Nikon lenses" Come on François: using the inexpensive, excellent and tiny Samsung zooms in much more handy than using an adapter an Nikon lenses, especially on a twin rig! > " tests show much better sync with Sony Alpha than with Samsung NX" I do not plan to shoot bullets etc. I have taken pictures of my daughters playing table tennis, the synch is perfect, even on the ball flying. Laurent. George Themelis Dec 9, 2016 https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/photo-3d/conversations/messages/114067 https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/photo-3d/conversations/messages/114067 Well, in the end, pictures will speak louder than words. August 12, 2017 https://www.facebook.com/ISU3D/photos/pcb.1626458764062312/1626457517395770/?type=3 https://www.facebook.com/ISU3D/photos/pcb.1626458764062312/1626457517395770/?type=3 The latest 3D gadget from Cyclopital. Still a prototype. Gert-Jan Wolkers : Looks like a twinned A6000/6300/6500. https://www.3dphoto.net/forum/ https://www.3dphoto.net/forum/ New Cameras: Sony a5100 « on: February 09, 2018, 12:14:01 PM » After lots of shopping I finally decided on the Sony a5100 cameras. A helpful post on the National Stereoscopic Association Facebook page informed me that these cameras can be cabled in a master/slave configuration so the shutter on one camera triggers the pair. 14thFloor_Randy Hester Re: New Cameras: Sony a5100 « on: February 10, 2018, 12:33:08 a.m.» Gert-Jon Wolkers was satisfied simply to mount his cameras side by side. Francois Re: New Cameras: Sony a5100 « on: February 13, 2018, 10:29:00 AM » After testing the switch I opened it up to see how it's wired. A very simple leaf spring arraignment. The top leaf is the ground pin, push it down to short it with the focus pin to focus the camera. Push it farther to short both the focus and shutter to ground. Note: Shorting the shutter to ground alone does not fire the camera, focus also has to be grounded. It should be very simple to wire another cable in parallel to drive two cameras 14thFloor_Randy Hester Sony a5100_ « on: February 20, 2018, 04:22:26 PM » I confirmed that the cameras do chain up so with the cables connected between them either camera shutter will trigger both cameras. I still need to buy a commercial 3.5 mm barrel connector to connect the cables. Next I will try some sync tests with moving subjects. 14thFloor_Randy Hester Sony a5100 action shots « on: March 15, 2018, 05:25:28 PM » Out at the zoo today and tried a couple of fast moving subjects 14thFloor_Randy Hester Re: Sony a5100 action shots « Reply #4 on: March 16, 2018, 08:19:17 AM » Out of 115 pairs I did have two that were obviously out of sync. In both cases it was because I was not ready for the shot and did not allow a pause between the half press focus and the full press shutter release. The time between focus for the cameras seems to be a bit variable depending on which focus mode each camera decided on. 14thFloor_Randy Hester Phereo: March 24, 2018 Randy Hester commented photo Falles 2018 http://phereo.com/image/5ab16f40e7e564e72100020d http://phereo.com/image/5ab16f40e7e564e72100020d I've seen several people posting shots from the Samsung NX series cameras with very good results. These cameras were high on my list of candidates after my Canon a810s died. Unfortunately Samsung cameras don't seem to be readily available in Thailand. I bought a pair of Sony a5100's instead. They have very similar spec's to the Samsung, the biggest difference id the Sony uses a proprietary multi-port connector for the focus and shutter pins. It's much harder to find than a standard USB connector but can be ordered online. April 23, 2018 Randy Hester commented photo Sony a5100 Portrait rig http://phereo.com/image/5add680ce7e564941d00012e Automatic focus and shutter detection via a Sony multi-port cable (not USB). More details at: http://www.3dphoto.net/forum/index.php/topic,11976.msg71729.html http://www.3dphoto.net/forum/index.php/topic,11976.msg71729.html I've gotten very good sync results using a multi-port to multi-port cable and just using the shutter button on one camera to operate them both. You HAVE to wait for both cameras to focus (half press) before tripping the shutter (full press) https://www.3dphoto.net/forum/ https://www.3dphoto.net/forum/ multi-port sync cable « on: March 25, 2018, 03:38:36 PM » The Sony multiport connector looks like a USB micro-B connector (it's compatible for charging and data transfer) but contains ten extra special purpose pins. Of these pins only three are needed to sync two cameras: 2 - Ground, 5 - Focus, and 4 - Shutter Grounding the focus then the shutter pins will focus and trigger the camera. The actions of the cameras main shutter button are also reflected on these pins, half press grounds the focus pin and full press triggers the shutter. So if the multiport pins 2, 4 and 5 are connected between two cameras with a cable then one shutter button can trigger both cameras. A cable is also made with the female 2.5 mm connector, so the simplest solution is to buy one of each and just plug them together. I couldn't find the female version cable so I just bought two male cables. I further modified mine by replacing the 2.5mm connectors with the more common 3.5mm stereo headset connectors. I then connected them with a headset splitter. You can also Y these two cables together and connect them to a simple remote switch if you want an off camera trigger. Twin Camera Rigs - Current Best Practices & Casual Survey Sony A5100 Twin Camera Rigs Casual Survey https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/photo-3d/conversations/topics/119852 https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/photo-3d/conversations/topics/119852 Apr 25 The Samsung sounds like a winner, with its physical size and ease of synchronizing, but I am a little put off at the thought of buying into an orphan system, and thereby limiting the range of future expansion (lenses, etc). So, who's shooting what (camera, lenses, bracket/bars)? How easy/difficult was it to put together? How reliable is the sync, for both natural light and perhaps studio flash? Would you do it all over again the same way, or are there things you would change (and, if so, what)? And, what am I forgetting to ask? Mike Canter depthcam Apr 25 2:13 PM https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/photo-3d/conversations/messages/119869 For those looking for high sync (via SDM) and a larger sensor than those on most compacts: Canon G1X (1.5") Canon G7X (1") Canon M3 (APS-C) The disadvantages: Only the M3 has interchangeable lenses minimum interaxial is 85mm prices are much higher than NX1000 For very good sync and excellent IQ: Sony A5100 (APS-C) can be connected via remote port but connection is on wrong end of body making it diffcult to bring the lenses close together. Francois Apr 25 5:33 PM I am using the Samsung NX on land and underwater I am using paired Canon SL1 (APS-C) and Sony A7 bodies (this one is presently under construction actually). The stereo base on the last two rigs is nearly 4 inches , but at the wide lens focal lengths/angles of view I am using, they are appropriate, allowing a near point distance of 6 feet . That’s perfect for the subjects I want to shoot. I sync the Canon SL1’s with an SLR Shepherd and the Sony A7s with a dual multi-controller cable. The Sonys (which have sequential serial numbers) sync great with a wired connection, but not with IR. The Sony A5100 (APS-C) looks terrific Francois. I could easily have used these instead of the Canon SL1 (APS-C), had I known about them. I see they are selling new at $348 now. With regard to the Sony remote plug locations, I have found I can make custom Sony style (15 pin) multi-controller plugs that have a relatively low profile, projecting from the body about the same distance as the camera strap lug nuts on the Sony bodies. The multi-controller plugs with PCB boards are available on eBay. Mark www.undersea3d http://www.undersea3d/ Apr 26 10:09 AM I was recently looking at some of Randy Hester’s images on Phere (I love Phereo). He had some images showing water spray at a Thai Wake Park. These seem to be very well synchronized. He also shows his Sony twin A5100 rig which he synchronizes using the Sony multi port. From what I have read the multi port connector may not be well located for close camera spacing Bob > These seem to be very well synchronized. Apr 26 10:47 AM Damir tested these (actually, the A5000) and, as I recall, the average sync error was 2ms so considered pretty good and on par with Canon DSLR sync. I estimate the open doors alone would add about 20mm to the interaxial. This means the minimum interaxial would be around 90mm. Some people are fine with that, others are not. Francois Apr 26 4:03 PM Mark, did you ever quantify the Sony A7 synch with concrete numbers? I know you thought they were "good enough" for your applications. DaveJes1979 Apr 27 4:03 PM Attached are two of my stereo rigs. The second photo is of a pair of Sony RX1’s. This is a full frame , 35mm f2. This both is smaller and lighter and the images are very impressive. The Sony’s are the first version of the RX1’s and don’t have an electronic release. I generally fire them by hand (tricky to get used to) or on a tripod using a twin cable release. All my shooting is scenic so serious syncing isn’t a concern. The EVF on the right camera makes this a mirrorless reflex. Right now the Sony rig is my go to outfit when traveling. Paul Apr 27 12:02 PM https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/photo-3d/conversations/messages/119907 Yeah, I know about the multiport plugs and I had suggested to users or people wanting to try an A5100 rig that maybe some type of "Zplug" could be designed (using two of those plugs) that would take up minimal space between the cameras when in Z-configuration. Maybe something that Werner could do ? Francois Apr 30 I enjoy my A5100 very much and its low light capability, high frame rate, manual settings, large noiseless detector. fast auto-focus, ability to accept other lenses, telescopes, microscopes just using adaptors, and the small size and low weight. I have not even used the wireless remote that seem great for pole mounting Sync on the Sony is likely to be affected by the slight variance of focus and exposure that can come from slightly different viewpoints. Unless these cameras talk to each other, or to a shared controller , they are going to be off a bit most of the time. If half pressing the shutter button were an option then one could set a delay or even wait for a report from the camera. Sony might be more receptive to this idea than Canon who has not be receptive to ganging camera that DIY folks can afford. Perhaps we need to share our thoughts with Sony. John TOEPPEN
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DaveJes1979
Jose,
This is very good news indeed. I believe that the ability to use modern Sony mirrorless cameras in dual camera stereo rigs is indeed a game-changer. I'll have to look in to acquiring the multi-terminal components you listed. You say that you get "perfect" synchronization. What, precisely, does this mean, and how did you test the rigs for synch? The APS-C sized sensor cameras, the a5100, a6000, a6300, a6500, and presumably the upcoming a6700 should be able to get down close to 84mm stereo base in z-bar configuration. This is not quite as good as the Samsung NX1000, at 68mm, but it is still pretty good. The RX100 line is actually slightly worse, and can only get down to about 89mm. I'm not sure if the RX0 has the same multi-terminal port, but that can possibly achieve as small as 59mm stereo base. The A7 line full-frame sensor cameras that I checked could get 101mm stereo base in z-bar configuration. What the old-timers around here won't believe is that you can throw out your flash, and all the associated synch hassles, with Sony cameras. Even indoors, with my a6000 I NEVER use the onboard flash, nor have I been tempted to buy an external flash. I might...maybe...get a small LED constant light at some point for extremely low light situations. It is a new world, folks!
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George Themelis
I don't consider myself to be an old-timer, but I must reply to this:
What the old-timers around here won't believe is that you can throw outFlash today is not used to give needed light, but to CONTROL the light. When you take a picture inside a room, for example, you are stuck with whatever lighting is in the room, which could be very unflattering to your subject. Using flash allows you to control the light. Look at the work of Bob Karambelas. Just about all his model pictures, inside, outside, use flash. He creatively controls the light and he blends available and flash light, creates special effects, etc. A year ago I was setting two flash units to photograph the birds at my feeder. My wife asked: "Why do you need flash? Isn't natural light always better than flash?" The answer is "not necessarily". At a certain time of the day, the light falls in a way that I like. The rest of the times, it does not. Using flash, I can reproduce the light as a like it, any time of the day. The bottom line is this: If you want to shoot snapshots with any light that happens to be around, or vast landscapes etc. when flash is ineffective, then, yes, maybe you do not need a flash. But if you want to get creative and control the light in the way that you like it, then flash is your friend :) George
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For controlling light outdoors in the daytime, professional cinematographers often use methods other than adding actual electrical lights. When it is desired to boost the existing sunlight, they often use reflectors to "bounce" the light where they want it. These are usually white or silver to keep from changing the natural color balance. Sometimes a colored reflector, such as gold-colored foil, is used to "warm" the fill light to simulate "golden hour" lighting. When they want to diffuse the light, they use a wide variety of cloth or paper materials, such as gauze, translucent tracing paper, even silk stockings. Gelatin filter manufacturers also supply a wide range of diffusion material. For reducing the amount of natural sunlight they use "flags", which are frames with black cloth stretched over them. You may have seen small "sunshades" mounted above the lens of a camera. These are called "French flags", probably from where this concept originated. Since it is desirable to retain as much of a "natural impression" as is possible with stereo photography, the amount of control that these methods provide can be quite subtle, and effect a very natural result, even when considerable "fill light" is desired. Careful use of these techniques can add depth detail, especially in shadow areas. And, rounding, such as of an apple or a basketball, can also be enhanced.
On Wed, May 2, 2018 at 4:00 PM, davejes1979@... [photo-3d] <photo-3d@...> wrote:
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Unfortunately, using longer focal length lenses with a wider stereo base
does not completely compensate. The use of long focal lengths, even with a wide stereo base, still "flattens" the image. This is why close-ups in the cinema often look squashed or flattened out, sometimes even resembling cardboard cutouts in stereo. They use too long a focal length. This is a problem whether shot in native 3D or converted. It is especially a problem with conversions since the cinematographer is not thinking of 3D during the original 2D shooting. The most natural appearance will still be with close to a 65mm stereo base. Also, use of longer focal lengths requires smaller f/stops to prevent fuzzy areas in the picture, which are real eye-pullers in stereo. Smaller stops have a limit too, called diffraction limiting. <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=icon> Virus-free. www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=link> <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> John A. Rupkalvis stereoscope3d@... [image: Picture] On Tue, May 1, 2018 at 2:02 AM, elendito@... [photo-3d] < photo-3d@...> wrote:
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Jose Barbera
Certeanly a miraculous sync in ALL the Alpha Sony cams is possible with a small investment (EUR 15,40 = 7,90+7,50).
Amazon Spain warns, (but only since 2 days :): " Comprados juntos habitualmente " (Frequently bought together) and suggests " Anadir ambos a la cesta " (Add both to Cart) ... but does not explain that this suggestion is due that using both cables we can assemble the best 3D photography equipment that we could never dream of.
The F-S8 cable, female, seems a absurd item, since the external triggers of the Sony cameras require a S8 male (M-S8). Perhaps DSLRKIT built the female version (possibly soon, after the latest news about its usefulness, it wiil be "out of stock”, I hope never “discontinued”) because in China it is possible to buy male triggers (here only female).
Today I can confirm that in addition to the Randy A5100, and in addition to the A6000 and the A7S (full frame, ISO until 400000!) also ALL the cams SONY CSC (hybrides in French, EVIL in Spanish) have a perfect sync :
F-S8 + M-S8 sync fine all te Sony Alpha cams:
A7 / A7R / A7S / A9 / (and II, III) A3000 / A3500 / NEX-3N / A5000 / A5100 / A6000 / A6300 / A6500 / A58 / A68 / A77II / A99II /
But after several tests we can affirm these two cables (F-S8 & M-S8) cannot sycronyce the more pocketable Sony Multi-terminal cams:
HX50 / HX60 / HX80 / HX50 / HX90 / WX500 /
We could not test other Sony Multi-Terminal cams (RX-100II, RX-10II, RX-1RII and ILCE-QX-1) because we did not have two unboxed identical cams in the shop and she cannort risk her job unboxing more cams.
Certainly the sync of the Alpha Sony cams is not exactly a new idea. After the message de Randy in Phereo, (con una pequeña ayuda de Yahoo search engine) I found here some rumors (shown in my previous message) about a possible sync of two models (A5000 and A6000) ...but... only several rumors, lost among many lines of text, without a explicit confirmation.
Nobody confirmed that he was doing a good sync with any Sony camera or explained the methods he tried to use for it (external o internal cable, diodes, infrared, bluetooth, wireless, bluetoth..). For those reasons those rumors were not relevant: never confirmed and never made explicit.
These new information will be relevant now, when it is now known and believed by all. That will make possible a great change, to better, of 3D photography
On the other hand, Jean Pierre suggested yesterday another possible connection with 5 items: male 2.5mm plug + 2.5 to 3.5mm adapter + 3.5 female to 3.5 female + 3.5mm to 2.5mm adapter + male 2.5 plug
But i think the conection male-female (F S8 + M S8), only two items, is more simple, aesthetic and professional. Also the Randy method with only 3 items.
All the best
Jose Barbera
PS
The sync tests have been done photographing cars at high speed, urban pigeons and water sources.Soon I will upload some samples to Phereo:
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... professional cinematographers often use ... reflectors toMany years ago I got a nice small circular reflector with a spring wire frame, silver on one side, gold on the other. It folds up compactly using the same technique as some car windshield shades and when folded can fit in the back pocket of my shoulder camera bag. I've never used it. The problem is I simply don't do posed or staged pictures. When taking a photo of my girlfriend outdoors, I suppose I could ask her to hold the reflector down below her face and help her angle it to get the right fill. Realistically, this just isn't going to happen. One of the things that is nice about modern electronic cameras is that with a dedicated flash, they have automatic fill-flash down to a science. Even my RBT S1 (Konica Hexar) with its dedicated flash did beautiful fill flash with no muss, fuss, or bother. Ironically a place where I would consider the extra fuss of using a reflector would be macro. But there the name of the game is well defused flash. Natural light usually is not going to cut it. I'm not a big fan of flash photography mostly because when it is done poorly it looks awful. But I've certainly seen it done well and would like to get more skilled at it myself. ...BC
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Jose Barbera
I think for compensate an excessive stereo base (greater than human, 6.5cm) we must use a shorter focal length ( under the human eye, 50mm) and never a longer focal length.
A short focal length produces the "inverse cardboard effect": it increases the depth----------- >it lengthens the Z axis.
That was discussed in this list (“inverse cardboard effect”) when commenting about the 3D fish-eye photos:
http://phereo.com/album/5819e0d8888428b30700000b
http://phereo.com/album/5952db95888428ab46000006
Jose Barbera
PS To avoid diffraction or shallow depth of field it is good to use the "8" rule:(Weegee, USA) :
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The use of long focal lengths, even with a wide stereo base,[ Over 1200 lines of previous postings removed! ] I don't think I'll ever forget the experience as a child (12ish) looking out the back window of my father's car, using a pair of binoculars. All the cars behind us looked like cardboard cutouts. The effect was very striking and uncanny. On the other hand Dr. T made me a believer, with his bird photos, that a mild hyper 3D with longer lenses can indeed work well. It is something I've yet to try yet myself but plan to. A while back I did try to do some bird photos with a remote trigger RBT camera on a tripod, pointed at a flat wooden platform where my neighbor would put oranges cut in half to attract Orioles. The birds did not like this two-eyed thing so close to their feeding station and would try and drag the orange away from the camera! ...BC
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George Themelis
> I've never used it.
I have the same thing (various versions) and never used it either.
JR mentioned professional cinematographers shooting outdoors. These guys
have crews that hold the reflectors/diffusers, etc. Obviously, the solitary 3d
photographer rarely has the time or resources for this kind of work. But
this portable folding reflector/diffuser can be used for bounce flash so it
could be useful to carry around.
I was reading a book on flash photography. The author is a big fan of
bounced flash. He said in one occasion he wanted to take a picture of a model
but he did not have these reflectors and the room/ceilings were not appropriate
for bounce flash. So he asked a guy with a white shirt to stand next to the
model, and he bounced his flash off his white shirt. The picture turned out
great.
> Even my RBT S1 (Konica Hexar) with its dedicated
> flash did beautiful fill flash with no muss, fuss, or bother.
OMG, that is the best on-camera flash lighting I have ever seen!
Unfortunately, with digital cameras I have not been able to get anything close
to that from a single direct flash. That’s why I am using more than one flashes,
bounce light, etc.
> Ironically a place where I would consider the extra fuss of using a
> reflector would be macro.
Macro is an area where flash is almost necessary. Instead of diffused
light, you can use 2 flash units (like my Chinese unit has). You can do a lot of
interesting things with a pair of flashes (one from the front, the other from
the back, etc). One my portraits with the Panasonic 3D lens and light from the
Chinese twin flash unit actually won the PSA Stereo Image of the Year award for
2017.
George
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Using long lenses and wider bases for distant subjects can of course sometimes produce effective 3D images. And may be the only option for wildlife and such. But increasing the base does not completely compensate for the telephoto effect and its alteration of perspective. I recently took some photos of migrating White Pelicans (stopping on a river in WI while waiting for northern lakes to finish thawing out). What I noticed was not cardboarding per se (as would occur with inadequate stereo base), but rather that if there were several birds at different distances there was an incongruous effect where they all looked essentially the same size. Normal perspective would make the ones in the back appear smaller. Since they did NOT look smaller, I had the false impression that the birds in the back must be larger, although all were pretty much the same size in reality. (These are very large birds with a 9 foot wingspan). I have had more "realistic" looking results photographic large birds when there was a single main subject without much background. -Linda
On Thu, May 3, 2018 at 11:30 AM, BC Bill.Costa@... [photo-3d] <photo-3d@...> wrote:
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George Themelis
Oh, yes!! I have seen this many times.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Photographing people on stage in theatrical etc. events, the people in the back look larger than the ones in the front, and you KNOW they are the same size. I showed this to Jay Horowitz and he said he will include it in his 3d Illusions presentation. George
Normal perspective would make the ones in the back appear smaller. Since they did NOT look smaller, I had the false impression that the birds in the back must be larger, although all were pretty much the same size in reality.
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> Certainly a miraculous sync in ALL the Alpha Sony cams
is possible
2ms is good by not "miraculous". SDM provides better sync. > But does not explain that this suggestion is due that using both cables we can assemble the best 3D photography equipment that we could never dream of. It's true that this cable is convenient, but using an adapter instead is just as simple and allows the use of angle plugs for a smaller base. > Today I can confirm that in addition to the Randy A5100, and in addition to the A6000 and the A7S (full frame, ISO until 400000!) also ALL the cams SONY CSC (hybrides in French, EVIL in Spanish) have a perfect sync... What tests have you conducted to come to a conclusion of "perfect sync" ? 2ms is not "perfect". (Note, birds in flight are not "sync tests") > Certainly the sync of the Alpha Sony cams is not exactly a new idea. After the message de Randy in Phereo, (con una pequeña ayuda de Yahoo search engine) I found here some rumors (shown in my previous message) about a possible sync of two models (A5000 and A6000) ...but... only several rumors, lost among many lines of text, without a explicit confirmation. They were not "rumors" but confirmations of people having used Sony cameras for years. This was brought up many times over the years. It may simply be that you weren't paying attention ! > Nobody confirmed that he was doing a good sync with any Sony camera Maye you should have done your own research and then you would have found this years ago. Gert-Ian Wolkers had a website with all this information over many years. Photo 3D is not the only source of information ! > For those
reasons those rumors were not relevant: never confirmed and never made
explicit. This is more a statement on your own inability to search for information. It was there all along and clear. It's unfortunate that you missed it. > These new information will be relevant now, when it is now known and believed by all. That will make possible a great change, to better, of 3D photography Not everybody considers the Sony's revolutionary. If that were the case, then all pros would be using them instead of Canon or Nikon cameras. People also consider the costs. That's exactly why the NX1000 is so popular... it's very cheap ! And that's the reason far fewer people choose the Sony's: They cost a lot more. And of course, they all want the magic "65mm base" that the Sony's cannot provide ! > On the other hand, Jean Pierre suggested... My name is not "Jean-Pierre" ! I am not looking for aesthetics but practicality. The suggestion I made calls for cables that have ANGLED S2 plugs, which the ones you suggested do not. The main reason for that suggestion is for people who want to bring a pair of A5100 as close together as possible. Francois
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Oktay
This is quite normal and it is related to the concept of perspective. Contrary to the common belief both wide angle and tele lenses create the same perspective provided the camera position is the same. The reason why wide angle lenses seem to create more perspective is that wide angle lenses include more foreground objects compared to tele lenses due to their narrow angles of teles. There is only one factor that affects the perspective and it is the distance of the closeset object to the camera. Two distant birds at distances of say 100 and 110 feet ( 10 feet difference) with a tele lens would create allmost the same image size. 110:100 = The near bird 1.1 times bigger. If the same two birds were at distances of 10 and 20 feet (same 10 feet difference) from the camera, the image of the near bird at 10 feet would be 20:10 = 2 times bigger. Because the human brain is conditioned to see with the naked eye and at the natural perspective it creates, it wants to conceive the second bird at the distance considerably smaller than the first bird. When this is not the case with the telephoto shot, the brain gets confused with the information it receives and it interprets this situation as the distant object being bigger. Oktay >>Oh, yes!! I have seen this many times. Photographing people on stage in theatrical etc. events, the people in the back look larger than the ones in the front, and you KNOW they are the same size. I showed this to Jay Horowitz and he said he will include it in his 3d Illusions presentation. George > Normal perspective would make the ones in the back appear smaller. Since > they did NOT look smaller, I had the false impression that the birds in > the back must be larger, although all were pretty much the same size in > reality.<<
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I agree with Oktay's comments. And in fact these perspective effects re object size and also cardboarding/ telephoto compression do occur in 2D as well as 3D. But somehow the 3D effect seems to accentuate it, perhaps because it changes our expectation of distance based on the amount of parallax? In addition to whatever spatial expectations we have based on image size/magnification alone. Linda
On Thu, May 3, 2018 at 6:08 PM, Oktay Akdeniz akdens2@... [photo-3d] <photo-3d@...> wrote:
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DaveJes1979
Jose,
I am one of the biggest Sony fanboys on this forum, but I still must say that *if* the synch by using these terminals is only around 2ms, then it is indeed not "perfect". And Francois is right, we need real synch testing, not simply eyeballing images of fast-moving objects. I want to be optimistic, but we need real, quantifiable numbers. I would probably give up the quest for genlock-level "perfect" synch if indeed there is a camera pair that can perform *reliably* (>90% of the time) under 1ms. Currently that means you either get a genlockable camera, or go with select SDM cameras (like my Canon S95's). I also agree with Francois that it is best to use angled connectors to minimize the minimum stereo base. However, I will say that if I can get in the vicinity of a 84mm stereo base with an APS-C sized sensor camera, I will be happy...that is quite sufficient for most of my applications (landscape and travel). I have accepted the fact that for hypostereo applications I need a separate camera rig using 1" sensors or smaller. And, yes, I do sometimes need hypostereo...if I am at a restaurant and want to photograph my plate in front of me, or my wife across from me, or anything closer than a few feet. Anyone who has compared the W1/W3 with the 3D1 in these kinds of situations know exactly what I'm talking about.
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robert mcafee
Nikon have announced the will be developing a new mirrorless system with new lens mount. Perhaps we should engage Nikon to request some features that might make these useful for twin or multi camera synchronized set ups? Things like location of lens and remote connections. Ideally a way to sychronize camera clocks or make one camera the clock for all connected
Don’t forget there are othe multi camera applications besides our 3D hobby
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John Hart
>I would probably give up the quest for genlock-level "perfect" synch if indeed there is a camera pair that can perform *reliably* (>90% of the time) under 1ms.
Well geez, as I've said here many times, simple parallel remote triggering of Canon DSLR (I have tested 1000D, 650D and 6D) results in just what you demand. ~90% of the time sync is much better than 1ms (typ ~.1msec, as good as SDM or anything else, for stills). Big and heavy, true, but great IQ. John hart3d.com
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DaveJes1979
John, you are talking to someone who had a Canon 450D pair with SLR Shepherd. I still encountered enough blown shots to get angry over it, although I don't know what that was statistically.
And this is 2018. Sorry, Canon sensors are embarrassingly behind the times.
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John Hart
>And this is 2018. Sorry, Canon sensors are embarrassingly behind the times.
There's always something better. But we're talking 3D here. You are not making 5 foot wide prints (I assume?). At best you will be displaying at 4K per side (squished vertically) on an LG 3DTV. I think recent (e.g. 6D) Canon sensors are fine for this. Maybe not quite as good in low low light as recent FF Nikon (i.e. Sony) sensors, because of more dark noise, but much better than any P&S, NX1000, etc. I have shot astro night scenes successfully with 6D's. Will show at NSA. Also with twinning stuff, cameras vary. I don't know about your particular 450D, maybe you just had bad luck. John hart3d.com
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