I loaded the converted movie onto a 64 GB USB C Flash Drives, inserted the drive in the Lume Pad, and ... nothing. I was unable to access the Flash Drive, and there were no error messages.

Hi Rob,

More details on the color and resolution in this video:

https://youtu.be/Mw5n-ECahhU

The color is warmer in 2D mode and very pleasing in the two 3D modes. As far as resolution. The panel is 2k WQXGA, so 2560x1600 in 2D, (but 1280x800 in 3D).
You can load higher resolution images and then zoom & scroll within a picture which is very fun.

Michael

It's called Silent Madness and can be purchased here: https://vinegarsyndrome.com/?_ke=eyJrbF9lbWFpbCI6ICJtYXJrLmtlcm5lc0Bhdm4uY29tIiwgImtsX2NvbXBhbnlfaWQiOiAiVzhyeWY2In0%3D

Also, if you look further down the page, you'll see 3D t-shirts for sale as well. Sadly, the Viewmaster reel is out of stock.

Mark Kernes

On Sat, Nov 28, 2020 at 08:29 AM, robert mcafee wrote:

Does your STMANI program provide masking capability

Yes, it is part of the program. It is explained in this part of the user's manual:
http://afgalaz.es/stmani3/en/angular_alignment.html#masks

with the stereomasken program?

I am just looking the stereomasken site. I never used but it seems a very fancy stereo mask tool, with rounded splines, different depths along the margin et al.
The masks of STMANI3 are just for cutting out selected part of the images. The are open polygonals with every vertex at the same depth as the margins.

Regards
   Antonio

These videos are terrific, Michael; thank you for going to the trouble of doing them. A couple questions:

Given your description of the microfine pattern in  both 3D modes, how much sharpness do the images lose? I realize that's tough to quantify...

Also, your videos show a distinct color shift to cooler tones when you switch to the 3D modes. Does that actually happen, or is it a video-recording illusion?

Rob Ellis

Antonio,

In fact, there is one case where you would need it, even with a perfect hardware: with an hyper-stereo near first plan. When shooting from too near positions for the first plan regarding the space between lens (too large for that distance), parts of the image will be nearer on one side than the other side, and when say nearer say larger. You will then be obliged to balance the alignment to keep with these larger/smaller parts, as we did with the Spider-Man example.

Yes, this sort of too-near objects produce retinal rivalry. My recipe is masking them out. STMANI3 has feature for this as shows this example from the STMANI3 user's manual where an unwanted rock appears in the right image:

 

I was speaking about hyper-stereo objects in near foreground. But, this rock is not a stereo at all.

:)

On Fri, Nov 27, 2020 at 05:06 AM, Etienne Monneret (Perso) wrote:

If they have local deformations they are not very well aligned.

It depends on the quality of the source.

If this is a cha-cha, you may have important local deformations.

With stereo dedicated hardware, you may have time shift, lens differences, bad aligned mirrors, focal or zoom differences.

There are many reasons why an original may not be perfect!

I view 3De as a very promising application to generate video from stereo stills. Not so much for stereo aligning because I trust better my own STMANI3, which does a better alignment job than SPM, if only because with STMANI3 I can control the placement of the matching points and also have better control of the alignment variables than SPM provides.
All my SBS are (almost:-) perfectly aligned in the whole scene, so I intend to use them as a source for your very promising 3De. This why I believe that only X alignment (stereo depth) may be relevant for the video zooming and overlays.

Granted, it is not possible to align moving scenes not shot synchronously. Perhaps here does make sense the 3De feature of aligning local areas. Also STMANI3 can not (yet) align images with gross lens distortions, though there are ways to solve this. Any other miss-shooting can be perfectly aligned with an appropriate perspective transformation.

 

In fact, there is one case where you would need it, even with a perfect hardware: with an hyper-stereo near first plan. When shooting from too near positions for the first plan regarding the space between lens (too large for that distance), parts of the image will be nearer on one side than the other side, and when say nearer say larger. You will then be obliged to balance the alignment to keep with these larger/smaller parts, as we did with the Spider-Man example.

Yes, this sort of too-near objects produce retinal rivalry. My recipe is masking them out. STMANI3 has feature for this as shows this example from the STMANI3 user's manual where an unwanted rock appears in the right image:


Regards
   Antonio

I purchased a Lume Pad and have started experimenting with it. Some of you know that my primary 3D interest is auto stereoscopic lenticular prints. I have plenty of image sets made with multi-camera rigs, orbital Dollys, slide bars, Nimslo cameras etc. The Lume Pad is a very intriguing device. I've imported SBS stereo pairs and 4-frame images from both the Nimslo and my multi-camera rig. I made an unboxing video and some other 3D video showing my initial results. The videos are posted on YouTube in SBS format so you need a lorgnette, PokeScope, OWL or similar device to view them. I know very little about 3D videography, so I simply mounted a Pentax Stereo Adapter on my Sony full frame mirrorless camera to make the 3D movies of the Lume Pad. Here are the videos:

Lume Pad Unboxing

Lume Pad showing 2-frame SBS

Lume Pad with 4-frame Nimslo film sample

Lume Pad with 4-frame Sony RX0ii multi-camera rig sample

Michael

--

On Thu, Nov 26, 2020 at 04:41 AM, Etienne Monneret (Perso) wrote:

You are speaking about horizontal disparity. But, on some stereos, you
may have a well-aligned whole image having some local deformations.

If they have local deformations they are not very well aligned.

 

It depends on the quality of the source.

If this is a cha-cha, you may have important local deformations.

With stereo dedicated hardware, you may have time shift, lens differences, bad aligned mirrors, focal or zoom differences.

There are many reasons why an original may not be perfect!

When zooming on these details, you may need to completely re-align the
zoomed sub-part. This is here where the "Automatic alignment" button takes a
great part of its interest!

OK, but it only makes sense if the original SBS are poorly aligned

 

Or badly shots.

For example, in the Spider-Man case, you may have a well-align whole
video, but it's very hard to get it properly with a well-aligned
Spider-Man (in fact, the background seems to be a simple flat
wall-paper!).

Spider-Man is a composition of two stereo pairs: the background and the
Spider-Man proper. If each pair were perfectly aligned in the origin, then
the composition of the man overlaying the background would be perfectly
aligned as well.

 

The background is a flat wallpaper, and yes, Spider-Man itself is not well aligned.

The whole image can be "at-best" aligned, but it's impossible to get it "perfectly-aligned" without doing a complex morphing.

The composition would surely require adjusting the depth of the Spider-Man
respect the background, because it would be bad if it appeared behind the
background, and it would also be bad if it appeared too much in front.

 

The original is "at it is", and you can't change the relative stereo position of the foreground with the background without doing a morphing. Whatever you do with simple transformations (translation, rotation, scale, width, height, etc), Spider-Man will always stay in front of the background.

This
is where I believe your "X" control in "Alignement" makes sense. They also
make sense the "X", "Y" and "D" of "Placement" because they do not spoil the
alignment, they only control the position and the zoom of the complete overlay.

But frankly, I would not use the "Y", "L", "H" and "R" of "Alignement"
because they spoil the vertical alignment, and it is very difficult to assess
the error visually.

 

It's completely dependant on the source.

Of course, if you have a perfect stereo original, you won't have to use them.

In fact, there is one case where you would need it, even with a perfect hardware: with an hyper-stereo near first plan. When shooting from too near positions for the first plan regarding the space between lens (too large for that distance), parts of the image will be nearer on one side than the other side, and when say nearer say larger. You will then be obliged to balance the alignment to keep with these larger/smaller parts, as we did with the Spider-Man example.

;-)

On Thu, Nov 26, 2020 at 04:41 AM, Etienne Monneret (Perso) wrote:

You are speaking about horizontal disparity. But, on some stereos, you
may have a well-aligned whole image having some local deformations.

If they have local deformations they are not very well aligned.

When zooming on these details, you may need to completely re-align the
zoomed sub-part. This is here where the "Automatic alignment" button takes a
great part of its interest!

OK, but it only makes sense if the original SBS are poorly aligned

For example, in the Spider-Man case, you may have a well-align whole
video, but it's very hard to get it properly with a well-aligned
Spider-Man (in fact, the background seems to be a simple flat
wall-paper!).

Spider-Man is a composition of two stereo pairs: the background and the
Spider-Man proper. If each pair were perfectly aligned in the origin, then
the composition of the man overlaying the background would be perfectly
aligned as well.
The composition would surely require adjusting the depth of the Spider-Man
respect the background, because it would be bad if it appeared behind the
background, and it would also be bad if it appeared too much in front. This
is where I believe your "X" control in "Alignement" makes sense. They also
make sense the "X", "Y" and "D" of "Placement" because they do not spoil the
alignment, they only control the position and the zoom of the complete overlay.

But frankly, I would not use the "Y", "L", "H" and "R" of "Alignement"
because they spoil the vertical alignment, and it is very difficult to assess
the error visually.

Your explanations may be a bit confusing because there are two X tuning:

- the horizontal stereo shift in the Alignment configuration
- the horizontal position in the Placement configuration

OK, I understand the first for adjusting the depth of an image respect the
window, and the second for displacing both stereo sides at the same time
(I guess for placing overlays)

Regards
   Antonio

Recently I bought some 3D blu-ray discs from https://us.zavvi.com/blu-ray/avengers-endgame-3d/12091896.html  as they have a 3 for $25 deal on now.  Two of them were great but one of them had a brown plastic plug preventing me from opening the case  (see attached photo).  I finally got the case open only to discover that the plug is part of a mechanism that prevents the disc from being removed from the case.  I should be able to able to get Zavvi to send me a replacement but I'm curious.  Does anyone know what this mechanism is?  I've never seen this before.

I suggest you not rush to buy anything right now.  Wait till other options show up in 2021.

Francois